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GEORGE HOWELL COFFEE

  1. Panama
  2. Panama January 2010

Exploring Panama

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  • The view from Cafe Kotowa: the village of Boquete is below.  Clouds from the Atlantic peak over the mountains to the north.  We drove through the village and then up into the mountains to Finca Lerida.

    The view from Cafe Kotowa: the village of Boquete is below. Clouds from the Atlantic peak over the mountains to the north. We drove through the village and then up into the mountains to Finca Lerida.

    Panama Jan 2010DSC0003

  • The Lerida coffee farm and Eco Lodge.  Lerida is a world class destination for bird lovers. The quetzal and other rare birds are found in the forest above the coffee fields.

    The Lerida coffee farm and Eco Lodge. Lerida is a world class destination for bird lovers. The quetzal and other rare birds are found in the forest above the coffee fields.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0039

  • Lerida has mostly Red Catuai cultivar coffees.  Red Catuai is a semi-dwarf Arabica cultivar whose cherries hold firmly to the tree.  This is important since during the harvest months Boquete is buffeted by very strong winds.  Yellow Catuai (bearing yellow ripe fruit, not red) is avoided because the fruit comes off easily; it is therefore popular in Brazil where many farms use mechanical harvesting. New varieties and cultivars have been added to Lerida recently, including Gesha and Mocha; the latter produces a tiny bean that has an age-old reputation for high quality that has yet to be tested in our modern  times, as far as i know.<br />
The farm is gradually replanting all its coffee trees along contours to better preserve the soil. The ossaional unbroken lines of taller trees are windbreakers to protect the coffee plants from the harsh winds that blow down from the north.

    Lerida has mostly Red Catuai cultivar coffees. Red Catuai is a semi-dwarf Arabica cultivar whose cherries hold firmly to the tree. This is important since during the harvest months Boquete is buffeted by very strong winds. Yellow Catuai (bearing yellow ripe fruit, not red) is avoided because the fruit comes off easily; it is therefore popular in Brazil where many farms use mechanical harvesting. New varieties and cultivars have been added to Lerida recently, including Gesha and Mocha; the latter produces a tiny bean that has an age-old reputation for high quality that has yet to be tested in our modern times, as far as i know.
    The farm is gradually replanting all its coffee trees along contours to better preserve the soil. The ossaional unbroken lines of taller trees are windbreakers to protect the coffee plants from the harsh winds that blow down from the north.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0042

  • Looking down from Lerida farm towards the Boquete Valley far to the upper right.

    Looking down from Lerida farm towards the Boquete Valley far to the upper right.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0041

  • Looking due east from Lerida.  La Esmeralda's Gesha coffee is grown on the mountain slopes in the distance, partially covered with mist and a few clouds.<br />
Lerida gets about 110 - 120 inches of rain per year while La Esmeralda gets 138 - 157 inches, according to John.  It rains less at La Esmeralda during the harvest season, however.  It is extraordinary how many microclimates there are in the Boquete area.

    Looking due east from Lerida. La Esmeralda's Gesha coffee is grown on the mountain slopes in the distance, partially covered with mist and a few clouds.
    Lerida gets about 110 - 120 inches of rain per year while La Esmeralda gets 138 - 157 inches, according to John. It rains less at La Esmeralda during the harvest season, however. It is extraordinary how many microclimates there are in the Boquete area.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0184

  • The wet mill below is about to undergo expansion; thus the rubble, bottom left.  The coffee cherries go down the white pipe to the blue depulper and demucilager below.  These take off all the fruit from the coffee bean.  The beans are then very meticulously mechanically dried, in the structure at right, stopping at night, to allow the moisture in the beans to even out before resuming in the morning.  John says that each variety of coffee has a separate drying profile.<br />
A coffee tree nursery is directly below, with glass roofs.  Just to the right are three long pens where the spent coffee cherry is turned to mulch, using California red worms  <a href="http://www.vermiculturemanual.com/en/manual/concepts.html">http://www.vermiculturemanual.com/en/manual/concepts.html</a>.)  A small concrete patio is used for limited sun-drying of beans.<br />
The beans, once dried, are stored in a heavily insulated warehouse to keep bean moisture a s stable as possiblke over the months of storage.

    The wet mill below is about to undergo expansion; thus the rubble, bottom left. The coffee cherries go down the white pipe to the blue depulper and demucilager below. These take off all the fruit from the coffee bean. The beans are then very meticulously mechanically dried, in the structure at right, stopping at night, to allow the moisture in the beans to even out before resuming in the morning. John says that each variety of coffee has a separate drying profile.
    A coffee tree nursery is directly below, with glass roofs. Just to the right are three long pens where the spent coffee cherry is turned to mulch, using California red worms http://www.vermiculturemanual.com/en/manual/concepts.html.) A small concrete patio is used for limited sun-drying of beans.
    The beans, once dried, are stored in a heavily insulated warehouse to keep bean moisture a s stable as possiblke over the months of storage.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0016

  • Meet the owner of Finca Lerida, John Collins,  He studied food technology at UC Davis.  His father bought the farm in 1957.  Finca Lerida first started growing coffee in the early 1920's.

    Meet the owner of Finca Lerida, John Collins, He studied food technology at UC Davis. His father bought the farm in 1957. Finca Lerida first started growing coffee in the early 1920's.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaDSC0059

  • The Lerida cupping room.  Andres Lopez manages the farm.  Here he is setting up a cupping that he and I will do.

    The Lerida cupping room. Andres Lopez manages the farm. Here he is setting up a cupping that he and I will do.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaAndres LopezDSC0189

  • Toby Smith, who owns a coffee company in Australia  <a href="http://www.tobysestate.com.au/">http://www.tobysestate.com.au/</a>), joined us in the cupping.

    Toby Smith, who owns a coffee company in Australia http://www.tobysestate.com.au/), joined us in the cupping.

    Panama Jan 2010LeridaPanamaToby SmithDSC0060

  • "Tuscan Village" at 6,000 feet on the way to the Hacienda Lerida Eco-Lodge.  Retire and own some coffee trees which are managed for you!

    "Tuscan Village" at 6,000 feet on the way to the Hacienda Lerida Eco-Lodge. Retire and own some coffee trees which are managed for you!

    Panama Jan 2010DSC0012

  • We next visited Hacienda La Esmeralda and Daniel Peterson gave us a tour. He is standing next to a Gesha coffee tree.

    We next visited Hacienda La Esmeralda and Daniel Peterson gave us a tour. He is standing next to a Gesha coffee tree.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0114

  • The Gesha (also spelled Geisha) variety.  The upper branches spring upwards at a 45 degree angle.

    The Gesha (also spelled Geisha) variety. The upper branches spring upwards at a 45 degree angle.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010GeishaDSC0073

  • This is the leguminous shade tree Leucaena Leucacephala.  Its roots go deep, assuring there be no competition with coffee's shallower roots.  It is valued for the nutrition it gives the soil, its compatability, and the dappled shade it gives.

    This is the leguminous shade tree Leucaena Leucacephala. Its roots go deep, assuring there be no competition with coffee's shallower roots. It is valued for the nutrition it gives the soil, its compatability, and the dappled shade it gives.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010Shade TreesDSC0068

  • One disadvantage is how much Leucaena Leucacephala can reproduce.

    One disadvantage is how much Leucaena Leucacephala can reproduce.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010Shade TreesDSC0104

  • This Gesha has a lot of cherries - for Gesha; it is a low producer.  Most of the cherries grow in the upper part of the tree (note the angles of the branches).

    This Gesha has a lot of cherries - for Gesha; it is a low producer. Most of the cherries grow in the upper part of the tree (note the angles of the branches).

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0138

  • The distances between Gesha's branches are very wide.

    The distances between Gesha's branches are very wide.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010GeishaDSC0077

  • This is the La Esmeralda plot of Gesha coffee trees called Mario, at elevation 5,000 to 5,400 feet.  Our current (Feb. 2010) offering of La Esmeralda (2009 crop) is from this plot.

    This is the La Esmeralda plot of Gesha coffee trees called Mario, at elevation 5,000 to 5,400 feet. Our current (Feb. 2010) offering of La Esmeralda (2009 crop) is from this plot.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0102

  • Another view of the Mario plot.  You can see th diversity of vegetation here.

    Another view of the Mario plot. You can see th diversity of vegetation here.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0152

  • A third view of the Mario, La Esmeralda plot.

    A third view of the Mario, La Esmeralda plot.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0161

  • The moment we passed a ridge higher up in the Mario plot we came to a very windy zone.  The foliage was sparse and production dramatically reduced.

    The moment we passed a ridge higher up in the Mario plot we came to a very windy zone. The foliage was sparse and production dramatically reduced.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0149

  • Another shot showing the effects of cold and wind.

    Another shot showing the effects of cold and wind.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010GeishaDSC0163

  • This leaf shows the effects of severe cold.

    This leaf shows the effects of severe cold.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0118

  • Daniel Peterson explaining La Esmeralda's quality control to me, Laurie and a group of Australian coffee buyers.

    Daniel Peterson explaining La Esmeralda's quality control to me, Laurie and a group of Australian coffee buyers.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0165

  • Daniel Peterson

    Daniel Peterson

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0100

  • Tim O'Brien of Cafe Imports, a major US specialty coffee importing company.

    Tim O'Brien of Cafe Imports, a major US specialty coffee importing company.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010Tim O'BrienDSC0167

  • Mark Dundon, founder of Seven Seeds Cafe, Carlton, Australia.

    Mark Dundon, founder of Seven Seeds Cafe, Carlton, Australia.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010Mark DundonDSC0169

  • Bridget Amor, Mark's partner, of Seven Seeds Cafe.

    Bridget Amor, Mark's partner, of Seven Seeds Cafe.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010Bridget AmorDSC0171

  • The La Esmeralda wet mill.  In back are two separators (high up) which remove the outer fruit.  The beans (seeds) and fruit then pass through a rotary sieve, below, which separates the bulky fruit from the beans. The beans, falling through the sieve, then travel up through a demucilager where turbulence and friction remove the remaining mucilage.  The cleansed beans then pass through the white tubes, in front, to be dried.

    The La Esmeralda wet mill. In back are two separators (high up) which remove the outer fruit. The beans (seeds) and fruit then pass through a rotary sieve, below, which separates the bulky fruit from the beans. The beans, falling through the sieve, then travel up through a demucilager where turbulence and friction remove the remaining mucilage. The cleansed beans then pass through the white tubes, in front, to be dried.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0089

  • La Esmeralda is experimenting with many varieties of Arabica which the Petersons are growing on the farm.  Each type is being processed and dried separately to later be cupped.

    La Esmeralda is experimenting with many varieties of Arabica which the Petersons are growing on the farm. Each type is being processed and dried separately to later be cupped.

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0084

  • At Finca Elida, another high quality producer - picking orange colored tree tomatoes.  See  <a href="http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/tree_tomato.html">http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/tree_tomato.html</a>

    At Finca Elida, another high quality producer - picking orange colored tree tomatoes. See http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/tree_tomato.html

    Other PlantsPanama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0198

  • Red tree tomatoes are said to be sweeter.

    Red tree tomatoes are said to be sweeter.

    Other PlantsPanama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0201

  • The other Gesha type had bronze tipped leaves.  The cherries of this type matured sooner than those of the green tipped.

    The other Gesha type had bronze tipped leaves. The cherries of this type matured sooner than those of the green tipped.

    Panama Jan 2010ElidaGeishaDSC0216

  • Thatcher showed us that there were two types of Gesha plants.  The young leaves of one type had bright green tipped leaves.

    Thatcher showed us that there were two types of Gesha plants. The young leaves of one type had bright green tipped leaves.

    Panama Jan 2010GeishaElidaDSC0218

  • Coffee blossoms....

    Coffee blossoms....

    Panama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0233

  • The beautiful Elida farm. IT has placed in the top ten coffee in the Best of Panama competition in 2009 and 2008.

    The beautiful Elida farm. IT has placed in the top ten coffee in the Best of Panama competition in 2009 and 2008.

    Panama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0236

  • Elida Farm in the foreground.The farm goes up to 5,600 feet.  Much of it is virgin forest shared with Volcan Baru National Park.<br />
Thatcher Lamastus, in his seventies, drove us to the top of his farm, along the edge of the forest, with spectacular views.  He explained to us as we were going up the narrow dirt road that he was partially deaf and could only see with one eye.  When we got to the top he stopped and asked for a magnifying glass to see a coffee leaf with hi good eye.  Great driver though! Who would have known!

    Elida Farm in the foreground.The farm goes up to 5,600 feet. Much of it is virgin forest shared with Volcan Baru National Park.
    Thatcher Lamastus, in his seventies, drove us to the top of his farm, along the edge of the forest, with spectacular views. He explained to us as we were going up the narrow dirt road that he was partially deaf and could only see with one eye. When we got to the top he stopped and asked for a magnifying glass to see a coffee leaf with hi good eye. Great driver though! Who would have known!

    Panama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0222

  • One last view from Finca Elida.  Looking north towards the Mario plot of La Esmeralda....

    One last view from Finca Elida. Looking north towards the Mario plot of La Esmeralda....

    Panama Jan 2010ElidaDSC0194

  • Our last visit was to Francisco Antonio Serracin's and his son, Francisco Jose's Finca Don Pache.  The farm is on the sides of a ravine called Callejon Seco which has a unique microclimate with just under 100 inches per year of rain.

    Our last visit was to Francisco Antonio Serracin's and his son, Francisco Jose's Finca Don Pache. The farm is on the sides of a ravine called Callejon Seco which has a unique microclimate with just under 100 inches per year of rain.

    Panama Jan 2010Don PacheDSC0240

  • Don Francisco explained just how wild the Gesha plant was.  Here we see a secondary branch rising vertically , quite common for Gesha, but not so for other Arabica varieties. Gesha is very hard to prune.  The plant often reacts poorly and is very hard to shape.

    Don Francisco explained just how wild the Gesha plant was. Here we see a secondary branch rising vertically , quite common for Gesha, but not so for other Arabica varieties. Gesha is very hard to prune. The plant often reacts poorly and is very hard to shape.

    Panama Jan 2010GeishaDon PacheDSC0247

  • Toby Smith helps illustrate the vertical nature of Finca Don Pache.

    Toby Smith helps illustrate the vertical nature of Finca Don Pache.

    Panama Jan 2010Don PacheToby SmithDSC0257

  • Because it rains throughout the year it is common to see some flowering along with ripe cherry.

    Because it rains throughout the year it is common to see some flowering along with ripe cherry.

    Panama Jan 2010Don PacheDSC0260

  • A departing view early in the morning.  Forest dominates above with coffee fields just below at the 5,000 to 6,000 foot level.  Fine mist, call bajareque, passes by.

    A departing view early in the morning. Forest dominates above with coffee fields just below at the 5,000 to 6,000 foot level. Fine mist, call bajareque, passes by.

    Panama Jan 2010DSC0281

  • Every degree of ripeness. A partial red cherry is called a pinton.<br />
Because it rains sporadically right through every month, including harvest, every degree of ripeness is to be found on the coffee trees.  In Boquete each tree requires twelve or more pickings.  Very laborious and expensive!

    Every degree of ripeness. A partial red cherry is called a pinton.
    Because it rains sporadically right through every month, including harvest, every degree of ripeness is to be found on the coffee trees. In Boquete each tree requires twelve or more pickings. Very laborious and expensive!

    La EsmeraldaPanama Jan 2010DSC0109

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